Butter chicken, an iconic Indian dish, is currently at the heart of a legal battle between the grandsons of the founders of Moti Mahal, a renowned restaurant in New Delhi where the dish was likely first served. The lawsuit, filed by Monish Gujral, aims to protect his family’s claim that his grandfather, Kundan Lal Gujral, invented the dish. His rival, Amit Bagga, who co-founded a butter chicken franchise with the grandson of the other Moti Mahal founder, Kundan Lal Jaggi, disputes this claim. Both grandsons argue that their respective grandfathers concocted the recipe, leading to a 2,752-page lawsuit.

The origins of butter chicken trace back to the post-Partition era when the two founders, both named Kundan Lal, fled Peshawar (now in Pakistan) to New Delhi, where they opened Moti Mahal. The dish, featuring tandoori chicken cooked in a creamy, tomato-based sauce, quickly gained popularity, becoming a favourite of prominent figures such as India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, and international icons like Jackie Kennedy.

The dispute is further complicated by claims that the dish may have been created in Peshawar, possibly to cater to British tastes during the colonial era, which could explain its rich, buttery flavour, a departure from the traditional spicy Indian palate. The controversy highlights butter chicken’s enduring appeal, both in India and globally, as it has inspired numerous adaptations, including butter chicken pizza, pasta, and even vegan versions.

Despite the ongoing legal wrangle, the true origins of butter chicken remain elusive, with some food historians suggesting it may have been independently developed by several cooks facing the same challenge of repurposing leftover tandoori chicken. The dish’s cultural significance and widespread popularity continue to grow, making it a symbol of comfort and culinary fusion.